It is rather difficult to read Indonesian politics. It is multilayered. And its space is occupied by many players. Beside the usual president, ministers, politicians and party bosses, there are the ulema, the NGO-activists, the CEOs, the mobs and thugs. Many of these have more than one face and they speak in different voices from different tongues at different occasions. Should I read newspapers, magazines and books to understand Indonesian politics? Or should I turn to the street and listen there to the cacophony of voices?